Summer Sailing to Nanaimo

Because of my enthusiasm for these vessels, you can imagine my excitement at being invited to attend the Olympic Torch transfer on the well-appointed Coastal Renaissance from Langdale Terminal on the Sunshine Coast, to Horseshoe Bay. It was emotional and exciting and all the good things you’ve read and heard about, being up close to the flame. Hugging and shaking hands with a few of the people who had already carried the torch, then to witness the Olympic Flame being lit on the Coastal Renaissance, I couldn’t help myself.  I welled up – for more than just the Olympic experience.  Having lived in Horseshoe Bay on and off during the past ten years, I realized how much I thoroughly enjoy and miss immensely I might add, the sheer delight of simply watching the ferries sail back and forth between Nanaimo and ‘my little bay’. Other than hopping aboard and going somewhere, the next best thing to ferry travel is to watch them travelling the routes, especially from your deck.

Bet You Didn’t Know

It’s true – BC Ferries is one of the largest ferry operators in the world, carrying more than 20 million passengers and 8 million vehicles year-round.  The company, which started out in 1960 with just two ships, celebrates quite a milestone

Sunshine Coast/ Langdale with Bill McCormick, Olympic Torch Bearer

this year – BC Ferries is turning 50! And can now boast a fleet of 36 vessels departing from 47 terminals, plus amenities for families with young children such as the Kids Zone and the Video Zone to entertain older kids and their parents too.  Fashionistas will find ‘Passages’ retail boutiques on the larger ships are filled with moderately priced pieces as well as specialty soaps and gifts signifying uniquely BC products. Dining options have grown, and definitely improved, over the years to include not only the famous White Spot Triple-Os (may they never be gone), on all ships there is now a vast selection of fresh and healthy food choices including fruit, vegetables and dips, to yogurts and salads.

All A’Board

What makes the trip so special you ask?  Well, I believe it’s the cleanliness of the ships and the friendly staff for starters. If the weather is cooperating – travel during the squalls of fall and winter and you know how high those waves can get – the trip is more often than not, relaxing and incredibly enjoyable.  And set against a soothing palette of grey-greens

David L. Hahn, BC Ferries' President & CEO, with Bill McCormick, proud Olympic Torch Bearer

and blues where ocean meets forested shoreline, with buttery sunshine often pouring over coastlines and ocean; well,  the visuals are outstanding.  If you have the time to travel this way, it’s magnificent.

So, if you’re in need of a getaway during the special days of Vancouver’s Olympic Winter Games, or more so following the closing, I say head out on the seas.  There’s a sailing going somewhere wonderful in BC, every day of the week.  Once you pick a destination, the hotels and resorts throughout the province are eager to welcome you and yours!

For more information, visit BC Ferries’ excellent web site at www.bcferries.com. You will also find great suggestions for touring by sea – adventures combining ferry travel with exploring the communities that are served by BC Ferries.

Visit www.vcmbc.com for more information on the Sunshine Coast and www.hellobc.com for general information on travel throughout the province of British Columbia.

Photo Credits: R. Bond, CtoC Productions

EXTRA SAILINGS DURING THE OLYMPICS

Bill McCormick with Olympic Fans in Horseshoe Bay - Go Canada Go!

“We are pleased to offer these additional sailings so Olympic ticket holders from Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast can attend the festivities and still return home that
same evening,” said David L. Hahn, BC Ferries’ President and CEO. “We also expect tourists to visit Vancouver Island and our other destinations as they explore British Columbia
as part of their Olympic experience.”

The additional sailings from February 12 – 28, 2010 are:

Tsawwassen – Swartz Bay route:
• 6:00 am sailings from Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen daily

• Midnight sailings from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay daily

Horseshoe Bay – Departure Bay route:

• 10:00 pm sailings from Departure Bay to Horseshoe Bay daily

• Midnight sailings from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay daily

Horseshoe Bay – Langdale route:
• 11:00 pm sailings from Horseshoe Bay to Langdale daily

Kid, Teen and Family Friendly!

Hawaiians love family!  So much so that The Hawaii Visitors Bureau has a section on their web site devoted entirely to

Surf's Up - Courtesy of Hawaii Travel Authority/Tor Johnson

‘Family Fun’.  Simply click on www.gohawaii.com, then ‘Family Fun’ and enjoy the absolutely gorgeous photos of kids and families exploring the Islands.  Oahu is ideal for a family getaway, especially if you’ve got active teens.  Surf lessons first, then practicing for at least three to four days guarantees pure bragging rights for those 13 years and older. Then, working on tan lines while lounging by the pool or beach, to swimming and snorkeling amongst gentle sea turtles creates sensational memories for the younger crowd – guaranteed mom and dad will enjoy it too. There are many fabulous hotels to stay at in Oahu. If you’re looking for upscale properties located on the vibrant, re-developed beachfront strip of Waikiki, complete with ocean views, impeccable service, delicious AND healthy meals, as well as guest rooms dressed in tasteful, Hawaiian décor; then have a look at the beautifully renovated Outrigger Waikiki and Outrigger Reef Hotels. I recommend a one bedroom suite with a queen bedded standard room on the same floor (connecting or nearby depending on the age of your children), to accommodate a family of five.  Everyone hangs out in the main living area of the suite, has their own bed to sleep and with the extra bathroom, there’s no line up. The pool area is perfect for relaxing- in the sun or the shade, with a beach front that is safe, warm and ‘oh so perfect’ for moonlit

Lei-making with Hawaiian Elders - Courtesy Hawaii Travel Authority/Tor Johnson

walks between properties. The hotels each offer lots of complimentary on-site activities throughout the day including lei-making in the morning, a cultural walking tour mid-afternoon, to hula lessons on the beach at dusk…and if you need to de-stress from all this fun, be sure to check out the Serenity Spa Outrigger Reef for a soothing couples’ massage – Hawaiian style as in Lomi Lomi. Heading off property, reserve picnic lunches to enjoy with your brood while exploring parks and beaches around Honolulu. All the details can be easily arranged with the concierge at either hotel. Retail therapy follows tanning rituals, so head out the front door where Chanel meets Macy’s, as do many independent retailers unique to Hawaii.  This particular strip of Waikiki is actually quite amazing now that the redevelopment is complete.  There is a store and a price point for everyone and that goes for restaurants too.  Make sure you enjoy a

Shopping at Dusk - Courtesy Hawaii Travel Authority/Tor Johnson

meal or two at Duke’s in the Outrigger Waikiki – this is the former site of the Outrigger Canoe Club which honors Hawaii’s legendary Ambassador of Aloha,Duke Kahanamoku. An incredible ocean sportsman, Duke was a Summer Olympic Medalist in swimming and water polo, and an international inspiration on the sport of surfing. Spectacular pictures taken of his talents and achievements adorn the restaurant.  More on this inspirational individual at www.dukekahanamoku.com. Rates and packages available at www.outrigger.com and more hotel options are listed at the Hawaiian Visitors Bureau site at www.gohawaii.com. Be warned, it’s a good thing to book one of those dinner cruises too – the food is palatable, with the entertainment and views reaching back across the water to Honolulu more than making up for any gastronomic shortfalls… and, the kids will love it!  Many more packages and air only specials at www.aircanadavacations.com and www.westjetvacations.com.

The luxurious Great Room at Long Beach Lodge Resort, Tofino, BC

Head over to Vancouver Island and Tofino where the sublimely cozy Long Beach Lodge Resort is decked out in its Christmas best.  Soak in the west coast ambiance of the Great Room – not to mention the amazing views out over the Pacific, as you celebrate the ‘12 days of Christmas’ with specialty drinks and Christmas dinner prepared for you – instead of by you – complete with free-range turkey and all the seasonal trimmings.  Take time to stroll the beach, making a wish or two for a new year filled with joy and love!  If you’ve got the vacation time, stay on for New Year’s!  Visit www.longbeachlodgeresort.com.

And while you’re thinking of an Island getaway, you don’t have to look further than Victoria.  This sparkling city by the sea is positively glowing with festive colours and lights, with special Christmas tours available at all the favourite attractions. Whether skating amongst the incredibly gorgeous natural décor of Butchart Gardens or stopping by to ride the

The adorable Rose Carousel at Butchart Gardens, Victoria, BC

exquisite new Rose Carousel, to Craigdarroch Castle and Helmcken House in downtown; take a step back in time to when the holiday season was not quite so hectic, or at least it doesn’t seem so by today’s standards.  The early days of Victoria’s founding families’ celebrations are on display daily over the next two weeks at both the Castle and the House.

Still in need of presents for your loved ones?  Shopping in and around Victoria is so much fun – from Chinatown to the waterfront, and out to Oak Bay, the specialty boutiques are intriguing and offer so much more than the big box retailers.  Home decor accented with hand carved First Nations designs, to

Giftware adorned with First Nations Artwork, Victoria, BC

jewelry and snuggly pjs can be found by exploring on foot.  And in every neighbourhood, there’s a cafe or bistro just perfect for a rest between shopping.  The angst of sourcing out that special something is quickly put to rest here – the charm of the city is captivating.

Walk the seawall along the waterfront from the Fairmont Empress Hotel where you can stop for afternoon tea and admire the spectacular display of Christmas trees.  Then head over to the Inn at Laurel Point where the peace and beauty of the season tickles your senses with the sweet aroma of gingerbread houses.  Tourism Victoria’s website lists many more activities to partake as well as a great list of accommodations offering special pricing and packages especially for Christmas and New Year’s Eve.  Visit www.tourismvictoria.com for all the details including reserving your place aboard BC Ferries.  Or go direct to www.bcferries.com.

Santa cruises BC Ferries all year long!

What – Victoria Gin

Where – Saanich Peninsula, Vancouver Island

Why – This is a product that has garnered worldwide interest and accolades – and is something that British Columbians should be proud to call our own. Noted British drinks writer Jim Murray sampled a test batch of Victoria Gin and pronounced it “stunning”, and it went on to be championed by local bartenders, sommeliers and restaurateurs.  It’s easily evident why the love affair with the Queen (the gorgeous label is Queen Victoria in her radiant youth).  This complex spirit is intense and full bodied, with a smooth spiciness and pristine balance between the hallmark evergreen flavour of juniper with notes of citrus, floral, and spice.

When – At tonight’s Cooking with BC’s Best Market Dinner with Chef Vikram Vij, we’re pairing Victoria Gin and Tonic with Vij’s Punjabi Heart Attack - homemade samosas with beef, lamb & paneer. We can’t wait to see how this complex spirit matches with his complex spice.  Worthy of BC’s Best

How (much) – $50.00

Winespeak of the Week – Back when it was released in 2007, Ken Winchester was better known for his coveted wines – Sharp Rock Pinot Noir, Marions Reach and Island Pinot Gris are some names that have had wine aficionados licking their lips.  But eager for a change, and following his heart, Winchester opened the first licensed distillery on Vancouver Island over two years ago, at the Barking Dog Vineyard property on the Saanich Peninsula.  Ken brought over a handcrafted, wood-fired copper pot still from Germany and patiently pieced it together himself (following some Germanic, Ikea-like instructions).  His first spirited efforts were well received eaux de vie – made from local fruits, as well as grappa – crafted with pomace from his winemaking.

His Victoria Gin took a bit longer to perfect – the unique recipe blends ten organic and wild botanicals, from juniper berries to rose petals. The eleventh ingredient was said to be a secret, known only to Ken (hmm – love?).  Ken and his partners split ways last year and though he no longer has anything to do with the production of this spirit (the folks at Victoria Spirits handle all production), all gin lovers everywhere owe him a debt of gratitude for showing us what is possible locally.

Victoria, British Columbia sits upon the traditional land belonging to the Lekwungen people, known today as the Esquimalt and Songhees Nations.  Next time you visit Victoria’s inner harbour, pick up the brochure entitled “Signs of Lekwungen”. Look for the seven markers which hi-light places of cultural significance related to the Lekwungen.  Created by Songhees artist, Butch Dick, the special carvings depict spindle whorls used traditionally in wool spinning.

Modern Victoria’s downtown core is alive with an eclectic mix of shopping, dining and entertainment outlets justly set amidst a rich backdrop of heritage buildings.  Visitors and locals alike are warmly invited to tour the area, learning details of the early days spent building British Columbia’s capital city. Ranked as one of North America’s top twenty downtown destinations by Conde Nast Traveller, here’s the reason why.  The growing revitalization of Victoria’s downtown neighbourhoods is evident around most every corner.  “Every so often, pause and look up” shares Ken Kelly, General Manager for the Downtown Victoria Business Association during a stroll along Government Street. “The buildings are unique unto themselves, reflecting their individual brands in design, finishings and colour.” Oh my, they are indeed!  An appreciative gaze at the rich detailing on one, which is snuggly tucked in by another proudly boasting a freshly painted façade and we’re positively captivated by the historical charm and character.

If you haven’t been for a visit in some time, you will be decidedly gratified with your decision to steal away for a few days to this lovely city!

Heritage Romance

Stately italian elegance minutes from downtown Victoria.

5 star Organic cuisine

The exquisite, adult-oriented Villa Marco Polo Inn located in the stylish neighbourhood of Rockland in Victoria, is all elegance, history and relaxation.  Originally built in 1923 as a wedding gift to a young bride, the Canada Select Five Star appointed Villa Marco Polo is once again a pleasing and particularly popular locale for all things romantic. The gorgeous Italianate gardens play host almost year-round (due in part to our temperate climate here on the west coast), to weddings and anniversary parties which speak of intimacy and love. The flow and furnishings of the home’s public rooms invite whispered conversation and relaxation; the enormous guest suites offer peaceful, private retreats within the luxuriously appointed king-sized beds and large, comfortable furniture. Middle Eastern influences abound, right down to the charming basket of slippers for use by guests; thoughtfully placed near the front door. Persian carpets adorn the gleaming hardwood floors, classically elegant floral arrangements are dramatically placed throughout the main living areas. And while the Inn is located only minutes from downtown Victoria, the sounds of the city…or any jarring noise for that matter, are banished.

Reflection of History

Rejuvenate body and soul in this penthouse spa

Tread up the beautifully carpeted stairwell to the 3^rd floor of the Villa Marco Polo and enter a haven of peaceful tranquility.  Penthouse Spa Hamaam is a warm, private setting where you can indulge in a massage treatment for two, a relaxing facial and manicure/pedicure, a few easy yoga stretches, or simply sip your tea while gazing out over the sparkling waters of the Straight of Juan de Fuca.  If it seems most everything has been considered in ensuring each guest is well taken care of, it has.  From the environmentally sensitive spa products locally sourced and produced, including seaweed harvested off Whiffen Spit on the southern coast of Vancouver Island; to the combination bamboo and green cotton towels and incredibly soft bamboo blankets used in the treatment rooms, this is a like staying at a well appointed boutique hotel…instead, you are fortunate to be in the sumptuous surroundings of the Villa Marco Polo.

Explore Local Garden Heritage

The Garden Lady, as I’ve fondly dubbed Joan Looy, is just that. Whether it’s a look behind a spectacular private residence’s front gate in Rockland, to a leisurely ‘walk about’ through some of Victoria’s best loved public gardens, Joan’s knowledge and deep appreciation for the greener things in life is evident.  Touring in small groups from one to six persons, Joan imparts the history of Victoria as seen through the eyes of gardeners and their gardens during her Victorian Garden Tours.

Hatley Park is biologically diverse, with a wide range of growing conditions from dry land gravel to wetlands.

Royal Roads University, Hatley Park National Historic Site deserves at least three hours to fully appreciate the exquisite Rose, Japanese and Italian gardens surrounding this lush 535 acre Edwardian estate.  Winding pathways take visitors on a breath-taking tour through what might be best described as ‘garden rooms’ lovingly created by human touch, blessed by Mother Nature.  Allow time to tour the Castle built in 1908 by former British Columbia Premier, James Dunsmuir. The romantic views of the gardens from within will inspire even a modest green thumb.

Get Going

www.victoriaheritage.ca

www.tourismvictoria.com

www.downtownvictoria.ca

www.victoriangardentours.com

www.villamarcopolo.com

www.bcferries.com

“I love the disco clubs and poutine,” she says. “Although, sometimes I have a hard time getting through crowds. Once my antlers got caught in another girl’s hair and we were stuck together for half the night. It was okay, though, ‘cuz she was a lot of fun.”

While many know Fawn through her work as a musician-either in her duo with Hank Pine, with local band Meatdraw or as a solo performer-she’s also got a line of natural products called Earth’s Herbal. You can sip on her wide variety of teas in coffee shops around town (or buy them in stores or on her website at earthsherbal.com) and she also makes natural sex products like Stroke It lubricant and menthol-infused nipple gel.

“I started off just making products for myself because back then it was impossible to find any natural lubes in stores. I wanted something anti-bacterial, completely natural, sugar-free, not sticky and completely organic,” she says. “Then a wonderful sex shop in Toronto, Come As You Are, encouraged me to start selling my own secret sexy recipes as products for their store.”

When she first launched her products, Fawn handed out 100 free samples to her friends to let them test drive it and then fill out a survey.

I learned many new great things,” she says.

“Every city in every province or state has an overabundance of tattoo studios these days,” says Derek Dufresne, owner of Fleshworks Tattoos, where he is also an artist. “Victoria is no different. Most of the studios have been here for years. They’re not going anywhere.”

But Sarah Kramer, co-owner of Tattoo Zoo, doesn’t agree that we’re covered with tattoo shops.

“Do we? I don’t think we do,” she says. “I mean, the downtown core of Victoria is pretty condensed so it may seem like there’s a tattoo shop on every block, but some other Victoria-sized cities have 15 or 20 tattoo shops so six or seven in the downtown core is not really so many and there seems to be enough blank skin for everyone.”

And that everyone can include both locals and those popping into town for a visit. Yes, tourists: the much-maligned sector of the population who become a little less maligned when it’s pointed out they’re helping small local businesses when they stop in town and spend some coin. And that money does often go to tattoo shops.

“Tattoo Zoo is in a perfect location downtown because we’re easy to walk to and, if you’re driving, the Yates Street parkade is around the corner,” says the savvy Kramer. “Our local clientele appreciate that. But we also are in a bustling tourist area so we get a lot of tourists walking by who pop in to look and usually walk out with a new tattoo.”

Dax Brunet, a tattoo artist at Universal Tattoos, says they also get a good mixture of both residents and tourists.

“We’re lucky and we seem to get a good flow of locals and tourists,” he says. “The shop has been around since ‘78 so it’s a mainstay in the community. It’s always good to have a firm base and be good to your clients, ’cause in the slower months when there is no tourism they’re the ones that you are going to count on.”

But it seems like tourism or no, there is enough demand to keep all of Victoria’s tattoo shops running. “There seems to be right now,” says Sparky of Urge Tattoos, now on Cook Street. “Some shops do better than others and this city seems to weed out the bad artists. There have been a couple of shops over the years

Perhaps best known locally for hosting the long-running Mocambopo poetry nights (now based out of the Black Stilt and called Planet Earth Poetry, from which she recently stepped down), aside from her garden at her home in Sooke, Morton’s current project is a book fusing archival photographs of Alberni Valley settlers with her poetry based on the stories of historic residents-including seven survivors of residential schools. “It’s a huge departure for me,” says Morton of What Were Their Dreams? Valleys of Hope and Pain: Canada’s History. “It was a really moving experience and it gave me a vision I didn’t have before.”

Despite the fact that she turned 69 this year, Morton-who also helped create Victoria’s poet laureate position-has no plans to slow down anytime soon. “It’s all a state of mind. It’s bullshit to say 69 is the new 50; it’s more like 30 is the new 20,” she laughs. “Age is not a complicated thing: if you move your body, eat good stuff, have purpose and an interesting life of the mind, you’re going to live long.”

Same goes with her career in investigation. “I don’t think I’ll ever retire,” she says with a bit of a sigh. “I don’t ask for work, they just give it to me. It’s probably the most interesting job I could ever have gotten in my life.” But for Morton, it’s about much more than just being a snoop sister; it’s about hearing other people’s stories. “That’s what I do on a weekly basis, and that’s what my poetry often is-other people’s stories.”

Asked & Answered

What’s one thing Victoria needs?

To tear up the boulevards and plant gardens. Let’s do it, man.

What’s Victoria’s best-kept secret?

Dragon Alley. Everybody knows about Fan Tan, but nobody knows Dragon Alley. People work there and live there, so it’s not as commercial as Fan Tan; the ghosts are still there.

What’s the best way to spend a rainy day?

My favourite place to be anywhere is a hotel lobby . . . I love to just sit there and watch the way people communicate, the way they dress, everything. So I’d go into the upstairs mezzanine of the Empress-which isn’t as good as in the good old days, when you could go into the lobby and just sit.

Where’s a good place to meet someone?

The Black Stilt. It’s a charming place with leather couches and chairs.

Where’s the first place you’d take out-of-towners?

I do love to take them to the Empress, just to see it. There, or Value Village. Often I don’t buy anything-unless it’s a Tuesday, when I get the senior’s discount of 30 percent off-but I just go around and look, because it’s just so much fun; sometimes I call it “VV Boutique Therapy.”

What’s one local must-visit store?

I really like the Market on Yates, because it’s small and people bump into each other. It’s the best chatty store and they have really good seafood.

Who’s an essential person to know in town?

Dean Fortin. He’s such a nice man and he has a good heart. I introduced city council to poetry, and he was always so eager. He’s the least political politician I know and he’s a very decent human being. I hope the mayor’s job doesn’t change his essential goodness.

Can poetry change people’s lives?

Yes. It sure as hell changed mine! Can it change your life in a thunderbolt way? No, but it can open your heart for a day. So many people say to me, “You made my day.”

What’s been your greatest poetic success?

Random Acts of Poetry. To be able to have poets all over Canada experience what I’ve experienced-the joy of sharing their poetry to people who may not have heard a poem for over 30 years-is just the best thing. It’s okay to preach to the converted, but to read a poem to the unconverted is another thing altogether. Thousands of people have been poemed, affecting not just them but the poets too.

Why is Victoria such a poet-heavy city?

It’s rich, isn’t it? Well, Patrick Lane has been running poetry retreats since 1997, which is a huge thing for encouraging and nurturing poets . . . I started with nothing in 1998 and am now on my sixth book. And it’s a lovely place to live. It’s also a less competitive, more supportive environment than, say, Vancouver or Toronto.

What have you learned from hosting

Planet Earth Poetry?

This series has been going on in Victoria for 12 years, and listening to poetry and reading my own have taught me what it means to be a poet.;